Thursday, 29 November 2012

November Review: What I've Done

Some of you may recall a post at the beginning of the month (for those who don't here it is) I shared with you what I intended to work on during November. Today's post shows you all how far I actually got, and what ended up distracting me.

Rubric Terminators

Sadly, very little has been done to these this month. I think, at most, I've based the fifth guy, and lost and found the final shoulder pad at least twice. Because of that, I think I'll dedicate more time to them next month. Or at least plan to...


Now, a bit more has been done to these guys. All five have been built, based and under-coated  and two have got a bit of paint on them.

The plan is to make them more elaborate and detailed versions of my foot troops, so expect stronger OSL (object source lighting) and more gold.


Since these are much larger models, they will of course take more time. Both buildings have received a brown wash to dull down the desert yellow spray. With the basilica, the patterned floor has been finished, and the front doors are being painted. They'll most likely end up a bright gold, to tie in with the apparent richness of the building's remaining interior.


Some work, which you know of, has been carried out on the Fellblade, primarily the beginnings of the central superstructure. The original was destroyed a long time ago, so an entirely new section was needed. I've also located two doors; leftover from my Deimos Rhino conversion (which I'll come on to in a moment). They will be modified to look more chaotic (trim, icons etc).

I think that, for the next stage, I'll finish off the central hull, and begin the engine or the turret. I'll have decided by the weekend, where I'll be briefing you all on December's plans.


Now of course, people who know me will know I often get distracted with new shiny objects. One of which were some Cultsits, built from the £6 mini-box sets. I've been enjoying painting up the cultists, which can be made very individual and still tie together as a unit. These first five are complete, and I am looking forward to the next batch.

Also, there has been my Deimos Pattern Rhino. Another unit I've enjoyed making, and one I am very happy with thus far. Now all that's needed is paint, but this time, I'll make it an official project for December, instead of a distraction.

Those keeping tabs on the Facebook page will know I've been working on a unit of Mutilators. At the moment, one is complete, and the other two are in-progress. In-game, they do have a habit of dying to bolters, so maybe completing them will bring them luck.

See you all soon, and for further updates, stay tuned into the Facebook Page, or follow me on Twitter: @MatthewDavies22.

Tuesday, 27 November 2012

40k tactics: Chaos Cultists

A wild man rounded the corner, and was quickly downed by a well timed blast from Riece's shotgun. He would have had me in the head with his Autogun if Riece wasn't so fast. We walked slowly up to the dying man. He looked like he was from the under-hide work blocks: he wore what looked like overalls, but they were heavily stained in blood, though not his, as they had turned the clothes a dark brown. He looked up, death closing fast, and with a blood filled mouth, he yelled:

"Chaos Comes for all!"

Today, we look at one of the Chaos Space Marines basic troops choice: the Cultists. Cultists are represented in the same was as they are in previous 40k fiction; weak, pitiful soldiers, which can be effective mobs en-mass.

Much like an Imperial Guardsmen, they have average statistics, but with a weaker 6+ armour save. They also lack the flexibility of Guardsmen; they have options, but not as many, and nothing which is suitable for any form of anti-tank role.

What than can do is have a large amount of attacks in much larger units than guard units. with two attacks (bonus for two Combat Weapons included) base, and an extra for charging, a full sized unit could potentially have 105 attacks. Throw in a mark of Khorne and you could have more fun.

Large units, whilst containing weak models, can be strong as a single entity, so if you're taking the fight to the enemy, use bigger units (I'd say 15+) to dish out a ton of attacks, and to ensure at least some survive to make it into combat.

Adding a good hero to the unit can also boost the unit's combat abilities. Either a fearless character, or one with a high leadership, will prevent the unit running away nearly as often. A Dark Apostle maybe a good choice, thanks to the re-rolls and high leadership it gives the unit (and nearby units).

But as objective holders, they can fare well. Since they are so cheap, they can sit at the back holding your home objectives, without you feeling that you are wasting a huge amount of points. You would be paying more than three times as much if you wanted Chaos Space Marines holding back; even more for cult units.

 If you want any chance of getting a save cover is your best bet. with a 6+ save, don't expect to make many saves, or even pass many. Try to get as many in cover if you want to hold your objective. A mark of Nurgle to boost your toughness can be really beneficial against opposing infantry; not so much against battle cannons though.

Options wise, Cultists can be more ranged orientated, with access to Autoguns and Heavy Stubbers. These are a must if you want to objective camp: pistols simple wont have the range to have any effect. Sure, the chances of doing anything with auto-weapons is low, but it's better than nothing. And with up to three Heavy Stubbers available in a full sized unit, they can deal a good amount out too. Autoguns do cost points, but it is only one per model.

Other Tactics

Some other, more painful (for the cultists) I've seen include:

  • Screening more important units. Using this cheap, expendable unit to protect something more valuable by granting a cover save to the important models.
  • Ablative wounds for characters. I've herd of some people using a 35 man unit to protect fearless characters like Abbadon the Despoiler. Since they cannot run away due to fearless people are using them to get extra wounds: that's effectively a 39 wound Abbadon running around! sure you don't get the saves, but odds are, they won't be able to kill the entire unit in one go, not at least without using most of their shooting units on this one squad.
so hopefully, you can now be  prepared to fling your slaves, cult followers and general underlings around the fields of Warhammer: 40,000.

Saturday, 24 November 2012

Making a Deimos: Part Four

A Barrage of micro-warheads struck the ferrocrete wall, collapsing under the barrage. The twin beams if the Rhino Transport were visible through the smoke, and the transport smashed through the hole, bringing down more wall. 

It halted, turning on the spot. It's circular side door opened, and out stood a Space Marine, but one who appeared nothing like the noble warrior the tales suggested. His armour was bladed and barroque, festooned in trinkets, fetishes and wards. the being wore a massive resplentant cloak of purple silk, and his armour was trimmed in highly polished gold...

So now we come to the conclusion of this four part challenge to build a Deimos for a fraction of the price.

For this, you will need the previously made parts (front plate, side armour and exhausts). Note that I've changed my exhausts, and have used heavily modified Baneblade exhausts. I wasn't happy with my examples, so I started over.

To complete the model, you will need the usual materials and tools used previously.

Fist off, build the normal Rhino kit up to this point.

Add the custom parts and hull in this order, to ensure it all goes together:

  • sides
  • roof
  • front

Next, we need to finish off the side armour, by adding the roof plates. Shave off the notches and rivets on the outer track sections of the roof piece, as well as the locating pegs for the headlamps.

Add the plates. These should be made from plasticard strips, of a similar thickness to the lip you make earlier. Cut them to around 14mm in thickness. 

Trim and decorate to your choosing. In the above picture, I've decided to continue the trim, and have added small triangles along the inner edges.

This next part is simple; adding a ram. I've used this example from the Chaos Accessories Sprue, as it is the piece which most resembles the original model's.

Now it's onto the weapons. These are really at your discretion, as you will all have different used for this most versatile of transports. I've gone with a Havoc launcher (from the box) and a Twin-bolter, make out of a spare Twin-bolter from my Tartaros Terminators, with some added spares to represent the automatic targeting system. 

There we have it: a neat little transport, with only a bit of (somewhat extensive) work on the basic kit. I would love to see people's attempts at this, so if you give it a go, post the pics up on the Facebook page.

Thursday, 22 November 2012

Showcase: Chaos Mutilator and WIP Cultists

It was when the multi-coloured lights cleared that I saw them. I first thought them to be allied Terminators, but they were, on further observance, far bigger, and far deadlier. Bony protrusions jutted from their backs, and the most-hated symbols were emblazoned upon them. Chaos. 

Their arms were holding what I first thought were chain-swords. But they were...attached, and fleshy. The chain-blades disappeared and lengthy power-swords slid out from the monsters' skin, blood weeping from the fresh cuts, which healed as soon as they emerged. Glowing energy ran across the blades, and they ran towards gamma squad, las-bolts pinging off their massive frames; gamma squad stood no chance...

(Diary entry of Guardsman Droga, 133rd batallion, Delta Squad. Later executed for fleeing the battlefield without authority from a commanding officer.)

I present to you one of my completed Mutilators (part of my November to-do list). It was fun creating these models and coming up with fluff behind them. Seeing as all normal Thousand Sons from the Heresy are dust, I needed to think how they can have mutating bodies.

The idea is that they were once either imperial terminators, or new chaos recruits that fell out of favour with my lord. The Sorcerers of the Pavoni (body chemistry/healing) cult have had no one to practice on post-rubric, seeing as 'all is dust', and have begun delving into necromancy and biomancy. Thus, the chaos lord has given them these Terminators to play with, thus the creation of these 'change-golems', aka, Mutilators.

The bodies used are Grey Knight Terminators, which have had plasticard spacers added to their thighs and waist, to increase their height. Terminator arms have been spliced with various parts, many of which are from the Possessed models, such as the claws. A Chainfist blade from the Tartaros Terminator kit was also added, to show the changing weapon sets. The flesh is Greenstuff.

Paint wise, I wanted to show that they had an unnatural energy providing motion. This is shown with glowing exhaust vents. On advice from the internet's Joeyberry, I painted them in an orange-yellow colour, to contrast with the blue armour.

I intend to complete the second model soon, and begin a third, so I can run a full size squad. I've been using them as bodyguards for my sorcerer in most games: four combined wounds with a 2+/4++ each makes a good wall to hide behind.

I also have these to show you all; the beginnings of a new Cultsit unit.

They are made up of the new 'booster boxes' of Cultists; a set of five mono-pose models intended to bulk out the Dark Vengence squads.

The fun with cultists is that you can make them look both individual and a group at the same time; by picking one colour to tie them together, they're identifiable as ordinary citizens under the sway of chaos.

I've used this to experiment with different schemes and colours. For example, The one on the left looks somewhat like an imperial noble/navy personnel  and the right one is painted to look like a former Mechanicus adept, complete with a red cloak detailed with a white cog trim.

The only issue I need to combat is making the same models look different; I bought two sets, and am attempting to make duplicates different. I've done this with some simple arm/head swaps, as well as changing weapons.

That's all for today. This weekend, we should see the conclusion to the Deimos Rhino tutorial, where we will bring everything done so far together, and add the finishing touches.

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Making a Deimos: Part Three

First off, I'd like to thank everyone who has taken the effort to join the Facebook page; it has reached 90 likes! Hope so see more of you join, it is worth it for all the extra content and fun discussion, plus the chance to discover more blogs and gaming talent.

Now, onto part three of this epic adventure to build a Deimos Rhino look-alike, using the bog standard Games Workshop Rhino kit. Today, we will be looking at the exhausts; an essential piece for the look (and pretend noises, vroom...).

For these, you will need:

  • Plasticard piping (I went with 4.8mm and 5.5mm diameters, but feel free to deviate)
  • Thin plasticard.
  • Knife
  • Files/sandpaper
  • Drill (1mm bit)
  • (Optional) Chaos gargoyle heads and curved pipes.
  • Leather hole lunch/similar hole making device

To begin, cut a piece from the 5.5mm plastic tube, about 2.5cm in length. Sand it flat if need be.

Perforate the tube using the drill. Drill all the way through to the other side, and try to keep the holes even and aligned. use a bigger drill bit if you want to create a larger hole. 

Now, prepare the inner tube. With mine, the pipe didn't quite fit inside, so it had to sit on top. Cut one to two pieces, around 3/5mm long, a bit longer for the top one. Glue them to the top (unless you are using gargoyles) and bottom of the perforated piping. 

If you're using the chaos gargoyles, add your chosen heads to the top instead. I will be aligning them so that they face outwards from the door (as shown).

Add the curved braces, which will attach the exhaust to the hull of the tank. These were made from small squares of plasticard, with the curved section done by using the hole punch. Select a size that will allow the exhaust to sit inside the curve.

The bottom connecting pipe is next. You can:
A) use a pre-curved piece by looking around, or
B) Make an angle.

If B, this can be done by cutting two small pieces of tube at roughly 45* angles, then gluing them together to create a corner. If you wish, you cam attack a connecting plate (between the exhaust and hull) with a circle of plasticard (the hole punch will help, select a larger size than the pipe's diameter).

To finish, add the curved armour plate, and rivet. This can be done to any style, and simply attaches to the outer half of the lower section of the exhaust. I suggest thinner plasticard, as it is much easier to bend to shape. You can use half a piece of larger plastic tube. Attach the whole assembly to the Deimos Side plates. 

There you have it, all the major components that make a Deimos unique are done. For the final part of this series, we will be bringing all these elements together, and adding some new ones to complete the look. Enjoy. 

(Deimos pic property of Forge World)

Saturday, 17 November 2012

Making a Deimos: Part Two

Before moving onto part two of this tutorial, I'd like to announce that the Power Armoured Metal YouTube channel is LIVE! You can now access extra content, such as videos of extra stuff and detailed responses to your comments...when it's filmed of course. So far, there is just an introductory video with yours truly,  but more will come in time.

Right, onto part two. Today, we will be looking at the side armour plating and round doors. For this, you will need:

  • Rhino outer side panels
  • Plasticard
  • Plasticard rod
  • Compass/something circle to draw around
  • pen/pencil
  • Drill
  • Jewellers Saw
Whilst we are only working on one side today, if you are doing both, just do each stage twice over before moving on. 

To start off, cut off the Rhino's exhausts. This will be replaced with new exhausts at a later stage, but today it's just the armour.

Cut out the above shape. You can use the rhino piece as a template.

Attach the panel to the Rhino piece. Glue it so it overhangs at the top by about one or two Millimetres  This is so we can line up the roof armour later.

Now, for the doors. Cut out a suitable sized circle. If you are using a compass to draw it out, drill a shallow hole in the plasticard to help prevent it slipping.

Cut the circle into two separate pieces. I've chosen to follow the Deimos' pattern, but feel free to do something else. Try to keep both halves roughly even in size.

Attach the doors. Use the foot-well at the bottom of the Rhino piece to help centralise it. 

Add the latches. These were made with layers of plasticard and a piece of plasticard rod. 

As with the front plate, finish off with rivets and embellishments. I've added a rim to the outer edge of the extra armour. I've not added and spikes and arrows, since I want to know how much space the exhausts (which will be part three) will take up.

Goodbye for now, and feel free to comment below or over on Facebook.

Thursday, 15 November 2012

Making A Deimos Rhino: Part One

As you know, I love Forge World's heresy era tanks. Their appearance suit my post-heresy theme, and considering the Chaos Space Marines ran off into the Eye of Terror with their heresy gear, more chaos armies should use them. My only problem is the price; only affordable with much saving.

 This made me think; can I make my own versions? To find out, I've decided to try and convert a regular Rhino into a Deimos pattern variant, and will show you how to do the same. Today's post will show you how to create the distinctive front plate.

For this, you will need:
  • Plasticard of various thickness 
  • Plasticard Rod (small diameter)
  • Rhino front armour plate
  • Plasticard strips (optional, you can use plasticard)
  • Knife
  • Ruler (metal)
First off, slice off the locating 'lumps' on the front plate, where the window panel would have gone.

Next, cut out the the above shapes (the squares on the mat are 1cm x 1cm). this will form the top box section.

Glue the pieces to the Rhino plate, with the angled ends of the small pieces pointing towards the top.

 Close up the gaps with strips of plasticard. File smooth if necessary

Add plasticard strips to the bottom, the same width as the raised plate. Add enough layers so that it matches the thickness of the top construction.

In between the two new plates, add four struts, the same thickness as the panels. These will fill in the gaps for the window panels. which will be added on top.

After adding the window panels, and using plasticard strips (or thin cut strips), create the windows. Cut at roughly 45* angles to get the best fit.

To finish off, add rivets and embellish with details of your choosing. The rivets were made from thin circles cut from plasticard rod.

And there you go, one complete front door. Next time, I'll be showing you how to do the side armour plates, including the round doors.

(Deimos image property of Forge World)